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Just Like Nebraska 

5.11d

   

FA: Vaino Kodas, Bob D'Antonio, Greg Hand, Jeff Peterson, 2003
New Route: Yes
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Views: 338 page views

Submitted By: Bob D'Antonio on Jun 26, 2003


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: Just Like Nebraska and Zee Eliminator


Description 

This route is located on the far rightside of the Bowling Alley a 150 feet up and right from the large ponderosa tree near the road. Hike up the short gully and look for a line of bolts shooting up a slab to a roof. This is the route. Climb up past the first two bolts and reach a good ledge. Climb past three bolts on a clean slab (cool slab moves) and crank up through a left-facing corner. Make a hard move over the small overhang (crux) and climb up the nice face to the anchor. This is a good route that climbs a lot better than it looks! A nice addition to the cliff and a great place for a late afternoon workout!


Protection 

Nine clips will get you to a two-bolt anchor.



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By Jeff Peterson
Jun 29, 2003

I was lucky enough to get to try this route with the fa's the day after it was bolted. It is a good route with a trickier slab than meets the eye and a technical little roof. Good people too!

By Bob D'Antonio
From: Superior, CO
Jun 30, 2003

Hey Jeff, didn't get your last name when we met. Now I have it and you will be on the FA. Take care and look me up on your next trip to Boulder.

By Patrick Higgins
Jan 25, 2004

Really fun route, but stuff is still breaking off. Be careful after the last bolt! When I was belaying, my partner's (rather large) foothold broke off and landed one foot to the left of me. Scary! The start is pretty loose, too, and I even managed to break a small crystal I was using as a finger hold on the slab. Once this things sees a little more traffic and gets cleaned up, it will make a great addition to the canyon. Very sustained, yet various types of moves.

By Kevin Neilson
From: Boulder
Aug 12, 2008

This is a pretty nice route, and its proximity to the road makes it a good project for short late-summer days. The slab moves before the crux--around the sixth bolt--are tricky and interesting. Here's my crux beta: after clipping the seventh, step up to the good right foot and get the arete undercling (this may break off eventually) with the left hand and work the left foot up. Now reach off straight to the right; there is a somewhat invisible sidepull there. Using this you can stand on your right foot. Now your hands are down by your waist, the bolt at your face, and your left toe seeking an undercling, somewhat unsuccessfully, under the roof. Pause a moment and throw with the right hand to get the jug as you are falling outward. If you catch it, you're done.