Personally, I like this route. Do That's Weak, to get up to a big ledge running across the face. From here, head up and slightly right. The climbing is not too hard to the first bolt, but it is up a ways. Placing a little rock pro here might make sense.
The angle freshens a bit, and the rock is a beautiful gold color through here, with some interesting holds for granite. Climb into an alcove on the left for a rest. Then tackle the overhanging headwall above (crux). Lower back to the ledge, and rap from chain anchors to the right back to the ground.
Protection
About 8 bolts with two bolt chain anchor. For the nervous, a few pieces for the start might be a good idea. I remember a TCU and/or cam placement, and/or some nuts. Bring a small selection in other words.
Add CommentComments on The Good, The Bad, and The Jacked
one can also lead this from the ground by climbing "thats weak" and going directly into "the good,the bad,and the jacked". makes for a nice long pitch(2 ropes to get off,or 2 rappells)f.a. s.sangdahl,d.salisbury,j.baldwin
Great pitch. Easy to mess up the onsight (as I did!). With the beta it's quite a bit easier. Very well bolted apart from the runout section off the belay.
One of the best 12a's in the Canyon... climbs kind of like limestone.3 stars when combined with That's Weak. Just wish the meat were longer. A 60m rope will just get you back to the ground with a little shenanigans... definitely keep a knot in the end though.
Vampire Rock
RSS Feed
