This is a short climb, about 25 feet up. The crack starts more wide open with options for laybacks if you are feeling creative. It revolves from the right to left with a one or two degree slant. The crack has yet to be worn out so all finger jams are pretty solid - a good one for those who may not be that comfortable in cracks. Note: There is one loose rock up there, but it does not come out.
Protection
Standard rack, with emphasis on mid-sized stoppers. Two bolts with hangers at the top for easy TR or anchor. Easy walk off.
Fantastic route! Bomber gear and interesting moves throughout most of the climb. I placed a few mid-sized stoppers and found a great spot for a Green Alien about 3/4 of the way up.
Has anyone else noticed the suspect nature of the rock that the right (east) top anchor is drilled into? It may be ok, but the rock around the bolt sounds a little hollow when pounded on with your hand.
The rock all around is plenty solid. No worries on getting anyone hurt. If anyone rescues a blue Smiley's #7 nut from the crack about 2/3 the way up, I'd REALLY appreciate it back. A nut tool + rock hammer may be required as my buddy didn't really know how to clean it and made the situation a lot worse... Also, if someone has a LOT of free time on their hands, please help me scrub that crack with a bouldering brush. It needs the abrasion. Thanks.
"A lot of fun. Fairly sustained. Great intro to crack climbing. "
Finger crack that is.
There are maybe 2 hands on this route. I used one #1 Camalot, but everything else was in the .5" to .75" range. Felt like I was climbing at Table Mtn... greasy and short (fun nonetheless).
This is a great climb for the moderate or advanced trad climber. I would not recommend that it be climbed by novice trad climbers as there are not very many good spots to rest or put pro in. A great climb on TR for the moderately skilled crack climber. A little greasy on hot days. I also found some blood on a small ledge. Overall an excellent climb sans the grease, blood, or typical weekend crowds.
This route is really short, but it is a good quality crack. Easy access makes this a good easy trad route. If this crack were in the middle of a multipitch climb, it would be a classic pitch.
This crack made for a nice first clean aid climb. Solid gear and short enough to complete with a standard free-climbing rack. C1 perhaps? I have no idea.
Nip and Tuck
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