Evolution snakes up the thin seam in the middle of...
Description
Evolution, formerly known as "Gimme Back my Bullets" and first TR'd in 1993, starts at the beginning of Cold Shot and then follows the sinuous seam crack up the Higher Security face. It's fairly sustained, with 11a or b cruxes at the 3rd, 4th, and 5th bolts. Exit the pod at the 5th bolt, angle up the left leaning crack, then hand traverse up a nice rail to the anchor.
There's still some scaly rock in places, but it's cleaning up quickly. Feels as pumpy and sustained as Cold Shot, but it's more technical and perhaps a little steeper.
Protection
Quick draws only, 6 bolts to anchor.
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Tom at the first crux past the 3rd bolt, eyeing hi...
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I second the heads up on the loose rock. A couple of foot holds disintegrated as I was traversing into the bigger stuff to the left. Several flakes flex, and there seems to be a largish area of hollow and scaly rock to the left of the crack that ends in the bigger stuff. If it received a serious exfoliation, it might be worth it.