BETA PHOTO: The last pitch of Charisma. Start atop the second...
Description
The last pitch of Charisma starts at the bolt anchor atop the second pitch of October Surprise and follows a line of eleven bolts up an obtuse corner to a 2-bolt lowering anchor. (The first pitch of Charisma is currently documented on MP.com as the first pitch of October Surprise).
The climbing is sustained, interesting and technical all the way up the route, with lots of 5.10 moves and several 5.11 cruxes. The hardest moves are at a bulge halfway up and at a technical stemming corner at the top of the pitch. The second bolt is very close to the third and may be skipped.
Lower from the top anchor, then do two rappels down October Surprise with a 60m rope to get back down. Angle the last rappel to the rappeller's right, toward the start of On Ballet. This leaves you on a small ledge 15' off the deck with an easy downclimb.
Great moves all the way up the pitch, but the experience is marred by crispy holds, friable rock, and lichen.
I'm reposting this warning that I posted under October Surprise on 1/9/05:WARNING: The pillar left of the top 2 bolts moves. It looks like an integral part of the wall, but when Chuck stemmed against it, it shifted a couple of inches.
This is the filthiest route on Earth next to some obscure route on The Thing, and no amount of time will EVER get this thing to clean up. How does this route get two stars and Hike for Y2K gets one? If you want to have a nice time at Blob Rock, don't waste your time doing this thing. There are a ton of other routes that are much better.
This is one of the worst climbs I've done in a while. If you do decide to do it, bring safety glasses to protect the eyes from lichen flakes. Also, brushing it on the way down might improve the climb for future ascents.
Did this route with Joe Chorny yesterday. There is still some loose rock on it but it wasn't that bad. Perhaps it has cleaned up some in the last couple years. The key down low is to use the arete on the right. It deserves a star. 11a sport is about right mostly continuous 10 moves.
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