By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Jun 5, 2006 rating: 5.11a PG13
| I cleaned the route hard on lap #1 and then went for lap #2. It improved a lot with cleaning- as well, some good footholds came up from under lichen and dirt on the second crux, stepping right into the lower angle crack.
The start is still hard and has a bad landing. As well, it is strenuous to place gear there. I elected to continue climbing higher and place below me after getting the bomber flake and side-pull on it. Since the rock below is pointed and sloping, and far enough to hurt a climber, I suggest approaching this route with caution.
Difficulty? Bottom moves: 5.11-, PG13. Rest of the route 5.10-, good gear. |