By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO May 21, 2007 rating: 5.11
| I was going to downgrade this to 11-, but after ripping off the starting foothold, the crimp on the starting handhold, the second handhold, the undercling, and part of the edge of the fingerlock, I think it might be harder now. I was scarcely able to hold on with each broken hold, and falling off that first foothold (can't clip before it) could have injured me pretty badly. I tried to clean up what was left of it (now 4" lower down) to avoid anyone else breaking their back falling 1/2 way on/off of the starting ledge.
As a result of my experience, my opinion of the route quality reflects the rock quality. |