BETA PHOTO: Dragon Direct. Start in the gully about 30' uphil...
Description
Look for 2 bolts up and right from the Knight of Swords. Make steep moves past the bolts, then cruise on gear to a 2-bolt ring anchor near the top. One may also continue to the beautiful ledge at the top of the ramp that runs along the Wall of the Dragon.
I had a sling with a good locking carabiner around a tree here so you could rappel back into the gully, but some assohole ripped it off. I thought this was Avalon in Boulder Canyon, but maybe it's just another Third World country. You park your car for a little while and when you come back the wheels are gone, the battery's gone, the spare tire and jack are gone, and the clothes you left in the back are gone. Oh, and the seats are gone too. The next thing you know, we'll have rigged elections.
Protection
2 bolts to get started, gear to 2 inches thereafter. Gain a 2-bolt anchor with rings. Lower off or continue up to the ramp beneath Wall of the Dragon.
By Ron Olsen Administrator From: Boulder, CO Apr 16, 2006 rating: 5.9+
Several hard moves past the two bolts at the start. Seemed more like 9+ or 10a than 9. There's a decent stance at the two-bolt anchor at the top of the pitch; you can belay here, bring your partner up, and then easily move up to the tree on the ledge by the Wall of the Dragon.
We replaced the rappel anchor on this tree: two slings and rap rings. Hopefully, this anchor won't disappear!
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Jun 24, 2008 rating: 5.9
The trad part up top is super-mellow (5.5?) and takes pretty good gear for a climb without a salient crack, per se. A good place to practice more advanced gear placements and runner work, I think.
West Gully
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