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Witches' Tower
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War is Love 

5.11b/c

   

FA: Bob D'Antonio, Greg Hand and Brian Shelton
New Route: Yes
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 70 feet
Views: 636 page views

Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Sep 27, 2005


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

Start on a big boulder that leans against the north face of Witches Tower. Make a high first clip and power up laybacks to series of technical face moves (crux). Reach the third bolt and move right to a short left-facing corner. Climb up passing two more bolts to the anchor. You can place a small stopper or Alien before reaching the anchor. Great climb on good rock. This should clean up nicely and in my opinion is one of the best face pitches in the canyon at this grade.


Protection 

Five clips and a small stopper will get you to a two-bolt anchor.



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By david goldstein
Jul 28, 2006

Surprisingly good -- better than almost every climb at Sherwood Forest -- but by no means a classic. Needs brushing. Be prepared to stick clip the first bolt.

By Ken Leiden
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 27, 2008

Made the not-so-clever decision of top-roping this route from the anchors on Romancing the Stone, located high on the arete formed by the N and W faces. It seemed like it would be the easiest way to top rope this and the other two routes on the N face by simply moving a directional runner each time (the RTS anchors are directly above Teenage Terrorists). But there is a lot of loose, funky rock between the top of these north face routes and the anchors on RTS. Our rope dislodged a good-sized block that exploded between my partner and myself. Suggest if you want to top-rope here, use the actual route anchors instead.

Btw, War is Love has some really good moves on positive holds.