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No Direction Home 

5.11

   

FA: Bob D'Antonio, Greg Hand and Ron Olsen
New Route: Yes
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11- [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 95 feet
Views: 387 page views

Submitted By: Bob D'Antonio on Sep 26, 2005


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BETA PHOTO: No Direction Home. Climb a steep thin crack and a...


Description 

Start just right of Tese. Climb up fun layback moves to a small roof. Clip a bolt and make a strenuous move up to the next clip. Power up and over the bigger roof to good holds. Power over the roof past six more bolts to a two bolt anchor.


Protection 

Ten clips will get you to a two bolt anchor.



Add Comment Comments on No Direction Home
Show which comments —
By david goldstein
Jul 28, 2006

Quite good from the ground through the roof.

By desbien
From: denver,co
Jul 30, 2007

Good route! Best I've done at Sherwood. Really fun movement into the roof section.

By Bob D'Antonio
From: Superior, CO
Jun 18, 2008

Greg Hand and I added an extension to the route going up the arete past the old anchor to a two-ring anchor. (5.9). and four more bolts.

A 60 meter rope makes it to the ground from the upper anchor.

By Tony Bubb
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 24, 2008
rating: 5.10+

Good climb, missed the undercling under the roof and was happy to get the jugs after matchin' on those little crimps. Still, not harder than some standard-bearer 5.10/10+ climbs.
It was nice that all the routes went the distance now- it adds some quality and length to them and makes them all the more interesting. The upper arete on this one was fun too.