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Black Widow Slab
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Wired 

Wired 

5.10a/b

   

FA: ?
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10a/b [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 70 feet
Views: 231 page views

Submitted By: Steve Annecone on Sep 17, 2005


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Description 

This nice climb is located just left of Smoke Down near the right side of the rock. It goes up the obvious, right-facing dihedral past the roof. The climbing is thin and fairly sustained, with interesting stemming and footwork. The crux is moving up to a stance below the roof. From there, nice jugs can be found to pull over the roof, and it's much easier 5.7 or 5.8 crack and face climbing from there to the anchors. Rap from the anchors at Smoke Down.

The climb might warrant an "s" rating, but if the small nuts and RPs hold then it should be considered reasonably safe. A very nice warmup for some of the other routes nearby.


Protection 

RPs and small wired nuts, plus a few small to medium cams. I used a #3 RP at the crux, so a Screamer or two might be useful if you don't trust a fall on small pro.



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By Chris Archer
May 27, 2006

This isn't Right Side.

By zack d
Jul 5, 2008

It took tons of work to make this climb somewhat safe. Some very funky looking, difficult to obtain gear. 10- climbing, 11 gear. some fun moves.