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West Gully
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Charon's Boat 
Dragon Direct 
Knight of Swords 
Merlin's Enigma 
Sorcerer's Apprentice 

Knight of Swords 

5.10c

   

FA: Richard Rossiter (roped solo), 2005
New Route: Yes
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10+ [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 70 feet
Views: 281 page views

Submitted By: Richard Rossiter on Jan 1, 2005


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BETA PHOTO: Knight of Swords. Start about 25' uphill from Cha...


Description 

This route ascends the steep, west-facing wall just up and right from Charon's Boat. Start a short distance up the gully at a big block with a J-shaped tree.

Climb straight out of the gully via side pulls and gain a series of underclings. The steep initial moves may be avoided by stemming across from a huge block to clip the second bolt. This is a pretty good route either way.


Protection 

5 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with rings. Lower off.



Add Photo Photos of Knight of Swords
Yvonne pulling onto the wall at the start.

Yvonne pulling onto the wall at the start.

Yvonne at the undercling by the first bolt.

Yvonne at the undercling by the first bolt.

Yvonne moving up to the second bolt.

Yvonne moving up to the second bolt.

Yvonne starting the route clean-up, wire brush and whisk broom in hand.

Yvonne starting the route clean-up, wire brush and...


Add Comment Comments on Knight of Swords
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By Ron Olsen
Administrator
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 20, 2005
rating: 5.10c

A fun route that's well worth doing; steep and sustained with varied moves all the way up.

I was able to clip the second bolt from the stem off the huge boulder; shorter climbers may have difficulty making the clip before committing to the wall. I did not try the direct start, avoiding the stem off the boulder.

Avoid a loose block on the left just below the top.

My partner cleaned up the route with a wire brush and whisk broom on the way down, but the route could still use more cleaning.

By Richard Rossiter
Jul 21, 2006
rating: 5.10c

Note to the mp.com folks...I am offically changing the name of this route to the KNIGHT OF SWORDS (an afterthought), as it is one of several ways you can reach Dragon Slayer. I think the sword has been the traditional weapon for slaying dragons. Thank you and keep up the great work. This website is not only very useful, but is a lot of fun. By the way, climb this route straight up out of the gully and it has a new crux.

By Eliza
May 8, 2008

What is this route rated if you do a direct start and do not use the boulder off to the side to start at the second bolt? We did it that way and thought it was pretty hard, at least an 11.

By Tony Bubb
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 24, 2008
rating: 5.11a

It didn't even occur to me to use the block back behind me... I thought the route was probably hard 10/easy 11 and the hardest part was getting the second clip. If you are limited in ability to 5.10, you really should get that second bolt clipped or do the stem back... it would suck to blow that clip!