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West Gully
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Charon's Boat 
Dragon Direct 
Knight of Swords 
Merlin's Enigma 
Sorcerer's Apprentice 

Sorcerer's Apprentice 

5.7

   

FA: Richard Rossiter and Laurel Miller, 2005
New Route: Yes
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.7+ [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Views: 272 page views

Submitted By: Richard Rossiter on Sep 18, 2005


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BETA PHOTO: Sorcerer's Apprentice. A fun moderate route. The h...


Description 

This fun little route ascends the west-facing wall behind the Wall of The Goddess buttress. Approach as for Wall of The Goddess, then continue around (east) to the boulder gully at the bottom of Charon's Boat. Hike to the top of the gully and turn left.

Step left from a flat block and climb excellent rock to the top of the wall. It is possible to climb past the 2-ring anchor and belay from a tree on the ledge beneath the Wall of The Dragon.


Protection 

3 bolts to a 2-bolt ring anchor. Lower off. Supplemental gear may be used up to 1.5 inches.



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Yvonne stemming past the first bolt.

Yvonne stemming past the first bolt.


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By Ron Olsen
Administrator
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 20, 2005
rating: 5.8

A nice warm-up route that gets good afternoon sun. The hardest move is getting to the anchor from the last bolt; come in from the left to keep the grade moderate.

Great views looking up the canyon from the saddle just above the start; the huge rock spanning the gully is amazing.

By Tony Bubb
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 24, 2008
rating: 5.7

You can also climb this thing belly to the bolts past the last clip and to the anchors without going left, which it looked like the bolt line was trying to force. Small slopers will be on the menu and it is probably 5.11b or so, done that way.