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Trout Rock
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Where's Vaino? 

Where's Vaino? 

5.10a

   

FA: Bob D'Antonio and Greg Hand, 9/9/05
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.9+ [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Views: 304 page views

Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Sep 15, 2005


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BETA PHOTO: Routes on Trout Rock. "Where's Vaino?" climbs the...


Description 

"Where's Vaino?" is the steep left-facing corner on the left side of Trout Rock. This is a classic pitch of laybacking and stemming with solid moves from bottom to top.

Climb the corner to the 2 bolt anchor at the top.

The crux is a strenuous layback into a stem about 15' up. I got in a yellow Alien and a #2 and #3 Camalot for pro. Above, the climbing eases but is still interesting. A second crux comes at the top of the corner where you exit right. The last pro is a #1 Camalot down left and below your feet.

This pitch is comparable to Tough Situation on the Second Elephant Buttress and a bit easier and shorter than Cosmosis on Bell Buttress. Well worth bringing a trad rack to Trout Rock!


Protection 

Gear to 3.5". I placed pro from a green Alien to a #3.5 Camalot. Two #2 Camalots were useful. 2 bolt anchor.



Add Photo Photos of Where's Vaino?
"Where's Vaino?", a classic pitch of laybacking and stemming on the left side of Trout Rock.

BETA PHOTO: "Where's Vaino?", a classic pitch of laybacking an...

Nickie Kelly laybacking up "Where's Vaino?".

Nickie Kelly laybacking up "Where's Vaino?".

Nickie Kelly enjoying a stem rest halfway up the pitch.

Nickie Kelly enjoying a stem rest halfway up the p...

Nickie Kelly working the right wall.

Nickie Kelly working the right wall.

Nickie Kelly cranking the exit move at the top of the corner.

Nickie Kelly cranking the exit move at the top of ...


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By Tony Bubb
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 10, 2005
rating: 5.9-

This route is about 33 feet tall. Not 25 feet, but not 50 feet either. It does have a few interesting moves, but nothing worthy of note in terms of salient qualities or my own objective experiences on it. After we climbed on the 'Beer Can Rock' we went looking for this rock. One of my partners looked at the rock and summed it up, asking: "That tiny thing? Why would I want to climb anything on that?" She elected to join others in our group who agreed and went climbing elsewhere. Chris & I stayed and climbed every route on the rock at a relaxed pace in a span of 45 minutes. I don't regret it, but in a few weeks I won't remember it anyway.