BETA PHOTO: Charon's Boat starts on the face right of Merlin's...
Description
Hike to the Wall of the Goddess on the Third Tier of Avalon. Continue around to the east and descend slightly to a gully full of boulders. Identify two obvious dihedrals capped by a roof. The route ascends the right side of the arete just right of the right dihedral, about 30 feet right of Mystery Ship.
Climb straight up past two bolts, then finger traverse left (very cool). Stretch up and clip the third bolt, then work straight up to a tiny stance with a 2-bolt anchor. Lower off.
Protection
3 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor plus optional gear up to 1 inch.
By Ron Olsen Administrator From: Boulder, CO Aug 12, 2005 rating: 5.9+
A short but fun route which seemed harder than the typical Avalon 5.9. The finger traverse between the second and third bolts is airy and it's a stretch to reach the third bolt. This clip could be hard for shorter climbers; maybe this bolt should have been placed 6" to 1' lower.
If the third clip seems too committing, it's possible to place pro (small cam) in the horizontal finger crack before clipping the third bolt on this route; see photo.
West Gully
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