BETA PHOTO: Double Down. The 10a crux is a thin face move pas...
Description
Double Down is on the right side of south face of Surprising Crag, just left of Frictionary.
Climb a steep face past two bolts to a ledge. Angle up right to a second steep face, which can be climbed either left (5.9) or right (5.7) of the bolt line.
The crux is a thin face move past the first bolt; easier if you're tall. This move can be bypassed by climbing the corner to the right then stepping back left at the second bolt.
The entire route can be done as a 5.7 by climbing the corner right of the initial face and climbing the crack right of the upper face.
A waste of good hardware. This is one of the most contrived routes in the park, and the bolts spoil the natural corner right next to it.
It felt like 5.8 without using the corner. I really wish people would think more carefully before bolting right next to natural lines. Not every square inch of rock needs a bolt.
It's a shame that this was bolted. A prime example of the over bolting done at sport park...Other than that it's easily protected all the way to the anchors. Makes a nice first trad lead.
By Matt Gates From: Pinewood Springs, CO Sep 1, 2008
Did the 7 crack variation with good gear all the way. Good beginner gear route.
By being bolted, you get to do one interesting face move at the start (I'm short, so getting to the good hands was a bit tenuous). After that, the route is uninteresting.
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