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Three Buffoons
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Anus Great 
Left Cheek 
Right Cheek 

Anus Great 

5.8+

   

FA: P. Ament, Van Freeman, & J. Dahlstrom, 1970
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.8+ [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Views: 192 page views

Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jul 1, 2005


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Janka Flaska laybacking the 4 inch crack.


Description 

This is a short, wide (fists & offwidth) crack on the R side of the Three Buffoons formation. It carries an odd name with unclear history. It remains in the shade in the morning. It is for the seekers of the obscure & close or the cogno-lost.

Move up the lower block on the left (looser), arete (no pro, 5.7), or the crack on the right (hands) and gain a ledge. Offwidth or face climb the bulgy start, get into the crack, and you are done. 50 ft. Walkoff L.

This is on the lean side of 1 star.

Beware of leaving your rope piled up in poison ivy.


Protection 

3-5 cams in the #3 to 4 Camalot size. Or 6x48 inch slings to TR off the tree.