Aids 

FA:  Pat Ament & Linda Schneider, 1984 Type:  Trad, TR Length:  1 pitch, 50 feet Views: 267 page views Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jul 1, 2005 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Getting into the seam...er... hand/finger crack.

Description 

If you are in search of obscure routes with stars in Rossiter's guidebook, this may be on your list. Well...it is close to the road, you won't find crowds, your cell phone reaches here, sun, but it ain't that great. Crack, yes, but it doesn't climb like typical crack. 1 star... barely. Wiggly Seam (esp on TR) is better but has much less pro.

Find this route on a clean-looking, S-facing, slab located just R of the trail after you turn L crossing the bridge that accesses the Dome & Frogman Pinnacle. Beware of poison ivy on the approach.

Ascend the crumbly slab to the roof below this route. Move to the left end of the roof. The crack starts as an incipient just over the roof. Pop over the roof L or R of the crack. Either lieback the crack or sort-of-jam the R-angling crack to the top. 50 ft. Walkoff L.

You can bail off L to climb the arete (5.6?), Deb's Arete, if you get to the start of the crack & don't like the looks of it on lead.

Protection 

Light rack to #3 Camalot. Red Alien to #2 Camalot for the anchor.