BETA PHOTO: Heart of the Narrows, first pitch. The cruxes are...
Description
P1 (5.10) Start below the gully 50 feet left of That's Weak. Climb the gully to a blunt buttress and the first bolt. Climb the buttress then step right and go up to a good ledge with an overhang. Pull the overhang and continue to the anchor. Unclipping the rope from the bolt left of the ledge helps reduce rope drag if you plan on linking into pitch 2. This can be done safely by clipping the bolt at the step roof then moving back down to unclip.
P2 (5.12) From the anchors for pitch 1, angle up and right along the slab ramp to the base of the gold-streaked headwall. Climb straight up the increasingly difficult face using small crimps and edges to a 2 bolt anchor. The position is spectacular and climbing is stellar though the crux is short-lived.
A 70m rope will get you all the way back to the ground from the top of pitch 2 if you don't continue to the final pitches.
More info coming as soon as I get my ass up there...
The belay at the top of the first pitch consisted of one 3/8" Rawl five-piece bolt and two old, 1/4" bolts. Ron Olsen and I removed the two 1/4" bolts and added a 3/8" SS Rawl five piece bolt. We added quick links and chains to replace the slings for rappel.
The hardware for this work was provided by the American Safe Climbing Association (www.safeclimbing.org). They appreciate your support.
By SAL From: broomdigiddy Jul 10, 2008 rating: 5.12a
Who the hell posts a route with 4 pitches and then only informs users of two of them????
Wassup Aki??? ;)
P3 did not look attractive to me. P2 on this route is super sweet. Good rock, solid holds and perty colors.
Vampire Rock
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