Left facing dihedral just right of Security Risk crack. Starts at two bolt anchor about 30'up on right side of the good ledge. However, a fun link up is the right 5.10 start to Security Risk.
A few 5.10 moves above the anchor. Technical stem move (crux) around the 4th or 5th bolt. 2 bolt lowering anchor at the top of the corner (even though there is a good ledge 4 feet above it...).
To descend: lower 80'.
Protection
Half dozen draws. #0.75, #1 Camalot, a couple Aliens, and a few slings for Security Risk start.
My brother and I flailed on this a couple of years ago. Yesterday I TR'd this on self belay after doing Security Risk. Got it, but it was very desperate this time. Total lunge at the crux for a big sidepull and then pumpy with not much feet to the anchors. Much harder than the other 11a's at Security Risk. There are lots of scars in the crux area from broken flakes and crystals, but those scars were there 2 years ago, so I'm not saying it's gotten harder recently. You could, but few would, continue trad from the anchor to the top at 5.8 or so.
This thing is pretty closely bolted but fun. The obvious hold you're going for to initiate the crux is not everything you hoped for. If you can hang on to that and get the next hold, then you're done with the hard moves on the route.
This short route is worth getting on--the crux is tricky. If you are doing Security Risk, you can do this sport climb before heading up the second pitch of Security Risk.
Lower Security Risk
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