BETA PHOTO: Shady Deal. Start just left of big pine tree. Cl...
Description
This is the bolted route between Father Figure and Splitting Hares described in Greg Hand's July 10, 2003 comment on Centennial. The 11c grade is an approximation; it may be easier....
Climb to the first bolt on Father Figure, then diagonal right past another bolt into a large right-facing corner. The difficulties begin at the third bolt where the corner narrows and steepens. Stem precariously up past the fourth and fifth bolts to a small roof. Clip the bolt over the roof and crank it on mediocre hands (crux). Make another dicey move to pull into balance below the final slab. After clipping the last bolt, one or two moves in a finger crack lead to the anchors. Lower 60'.
Although the climbing from the third bolt to the anchors is sustained, the bolts are only 3'-5' apart.
By Ron Olsen Administrator From: Boulder, CO Aug 29, 2005
This route is "Shady Deal", 5.11c/d, first ascent by Dan Hare and Stella Adams, July 2002, according to Mark Rolofson's new guidebook "Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide Volume II - The Upper Canyon".
Really fun route with precarious moves. Ridiculously over-bolted. Does it count as a lead if you always have a bolt clipped over your head?
By Richard Radcliffe From: Louisville, CO Sep 10, 2007 rating: 5.11a
From below, the route looks like it might be kind of a weird-fest, but once you get into it, you'll find that it's really a stemmer's delight capped off with one or two nice, balancy slab moves to the anchor. Too bad it's so short...
Lower Right Side
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