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Frisky Cliff
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Borg, The 
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The Borg 

5.13c

   

FA: Ben Moon FFA Guthrie Equipped
Type: Sport
Length: 1 pitch, 70 feet
Views: 353 page views

Submitted By: Peter Beal on Jan 1, 2005


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Description 

This very bouldery route traverses out the massive overhang on the right side of the Frisky Cliff. A stout first dyno and swing, then heelhooks and crimps to a short corner and tricky slab. This route had its 15 minutes of fame when Ben Moon of the UK was photographed for Climbing Magazine in a snowstorm on this route. Some have argued for a harder grade but for today's bouldering mutants this may prove a pleasant morning's outing. Morning shade, well worth the hike.


Protection 

Bolts.



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By Jim Redo
Sep 9, 2004

Is the first bolt still missing?

By Dan Levison
From: Boulder
Sep 9, 2004

The externally threaded bolt stud is there, but no hanger or nut.

By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Sep 10, 2004

This would be a good candidate for a glue-in since it takes a lot of hard pulling from falling at the start.

By Anonymous Coward
Sep 13, 2004

This climb has one [redeeming] quality - it's steep. otherwise, there is no real line (you could just as well go up and over the roof at any point) and it was blasted to existence from the aqueduct. The fact that it got any press is attributable to the popularity of Moon at the time. There were likely hundreds of FAs at the time that should have been reported in lieu.

By Taylor Roy
From: Boulder, Co
May 3, 2008

As of 5/3/08 the hanger for first bolt on the overhang is missing again. What's the deal?

By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
May 4, 2008

There's a number 2 RP placement instead. As the retro-trad wave continues, look for more missing bolts/hangers....

Seriously, the first bolt should be a glue-in since the leverage it gets is intense and virtually any hanger is eventually pried off. That's my guess. I noticed the problem when I did the route way back when and posted accordingly in 2004.

By Scott Hahn
Jun 29, 2008

I replaced the hanger today. Hopefully this one lasts longer than the last.