The full moon on The Borg. Photo: Bob Horan Collec...
Description
This very bouldery route traverses out the massive overhang on the right side of the Frisky Cliff. A stout first dyno and swing, then heelhooks and crimps to a short corner and tricky slab. This route had its 15 minutes of fame when Ben Moon of the UK was photographed for Climbing Magazine in a snowstorm on this route. Some have argued for a harder grade but for today's bouldering mutants this may prove a pleasant morning's outing. Morning shade, well worth the hike.
This climb has one [redeeming] quality - it's steep. otherwise, there is no real line (you could just as well go up and over the roof at any point) and it was blasted to existence from the aqueduct. The fact that it got any press is attributable to the popularity of Moon at the time. There were likely hundreds of FAs at the time that should have been reported in lieu.
There's a number 2 RP placement instead. As the retro-trad wave continues, look for more missing bolts/hangers....
Seriously, the first bolt should be a glue-in since the leverage it gets is intense and virtually any hanger is eventually pried off. That's my guess. I noticed the problem when I did the route way back when and posted accordingly in 2004.
I got on this thing today: the first bolt is oldschool-sketch and then as I leaned out to try the crux moves I looked at the 2nd bolt and the nut on the bolt had nearly unwound itself. I tried to get it as tight as possible. Just an FYI, take a look to see if the hanger is well secured before going for the dyno crux, it may be good for your longevity. Dope bouldery opening sequence. The first 3 draws are in place at this time.
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