Start 15-20 feet up the gully from the start of "Where Eagles Dare". PITCH 1: Climb 15 feet up a slab/arete to a good cam placement, then traverse left across a beautiful slab to the crux overhang on "Where Eagles Dare" but take the horizontal finger crack out left and over a bulge(5.9+). Continue up and left over a somewhat unprotected slab with a finger rail seam to a right facing corner/notch. Belay at a old piton and a bolt(back it up).Look up to observe the large, old eagles nest that looms above you. It looks ready to fall.(An old bolt and pin may be in place on this pitch)PITCH 2: Climb up and right through a diagonal offwidth crack then traverse straight right around a bulge. Belay at two bolts(same anchor as where eagles dare 2nd pitch).PITCH 3: Go left to a corner and climb a fridge-like block, place a small nut or rp in a dirty seam. Climb up and right to a shallow corner just below an huge, orange dihedral that goes diagonaly left (5.8+s). Climb this corner/roof crack to its end (5.9+), then join an easy, short slab/corner to a huge walk-off ledge.Desend the ledge west(4th class) or rappel from anchors at the top of other routes along the way.
A few of my variations are different than the description of this route in Rossiter's guidebook.
Protection
Gear to 4 inches with small nuts, RPs and long runners.
Main Wall
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