Climb the face between Tuckered and Fried (5.10c) and Men In Tights (5.10b), then tackle the roofs above directly, joining T & F" when it comes in from the left.
Protection
8 bolts (sharing the last clip) to the anchor of "Tuckered and Fried".
By Ron Olsen Administrator From: Boulder, CO Aug 13, 2004 rating: 5.11a
Thin 5.10 face climbing with some tricky moves leading to an imposing roof. A little "new route grunge" doesn't detract from the quality of the moves. I clipped the 6th bolt over the roof and moved left to bigger holds instead of tackling the roof directly. Moving back right was a challenge and I took a few hangs to figure out the moves. I eventually got back on route and finished the climb.
The way I did it was harder than 10c and my initial attempt at tackling the roof directly felt harder than 10c, so I'll give the route an 11a grade .
Next time, I'll try the roof straight on and see if I can figure out the sequence.
This was a FUN route! Just wondering if anyone else has found that you can stem from the small dihedral/arete to the far right flaring crack? Or a knee bar @ the first roof? Also, any beta on the moves over the second roof? They seemed a little sketchy and took a bit of mental strength for what I consider a 10. I'd call it a 10+.