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It's My Swamp 
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It's My Swamp 

5.8

   

FA: ? D Thompson, LP
Type: Trad
Length: 3 pitches, 370 feet
Views: 262 page views

Submitted By: Leo Paik on Jul 15, 2004


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Deb T on P1


Description 

This route ascends the N face of the lower & upper buttresses or ribs of Witches' Tower & Sherwood Forest with an optional traverse pitch in between them. While currently still scruffy & loose in places, this route could clean up into a nice low-end moderate. There is room for more trad routes on either buttress. Cross the creek via Tyrolean or wade. Approach along the creek on a decent path. Shortly after the path heads uphill toward the sport climbs on the W face, break off L to the base of the lower chunk of rock. Find the L edge of the N face of Witches Tower.

P1. This starts on the L edge of the N face of Witches' Tower. Ascend near an arête of sorts, pass a flexing proboscis-like flake. There is a black Alien placement to the R. Stand on it and gain the crux face moves. Move up & R on to easier terrain. Pass some large hanging flakes/boulders on their L. Find a broken ledge system about half height. Continue up wider, lower-angle cracks to the top of the buttress. 120 ft. 5.8.

P2. You can avoid the small gendarmes by moving L or, if you are of the mountaineering spirit, hop a number of small gendarmes (a bit contrived) with the cruxes being on the first & last of these. Note, there are definitely loose blocks, not cleared yet, along this path. Belay at a tree at a notch on the L side of the N face of Sherwood Forest. You can exit here down a steep path-like direction E if needed. 110 ft. 5.7 s.

P3. Continue up the L edge of the N face of Sherwood Forest. Weave in and around cracks, blocks (some of which are loose), as you trend R to the summit of Sherwood Forest. 140 ft. 5.7.

Other lines may be unearthed on Sherwood Forest's N face...

Walk off around the buttresses on the W side on loose scree & connect with the path below the W face sport climbs.

1.12 stars for the line & adventure :)

Little Ogre


Protection 

Wires, Aliens, cams to #3 Camalot.



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Deb T on Sherwood Forest, P3

Deb T on Sherwood Forest, P3


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By Tony Bubb
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 26, 2008

Not too hard or runout, but certainly an 'adventure climb.' Plenty of lichen and a few loose blocks. The grade on the first pitch seemed about right. No single trip up this thing with a brush will make it clean, but the route would be tremendously improved with a some effort from each of several of the next attempts... take a brush. Also, perhaps 50 or 60 feet up there is a flake/spike to the right that someone's second could push off after verifying that the trail is clear.