By Ivan Rezucha Jan 1, 2005 rating: 5.10b
| Ron, you stopped too soon. It's not clear whether, after the first 3 bolts, you angled left to the anchor or angled right to a different anchor. If you go right you can continue to the top past 2 or 3 more intermediate anchors with only slightly more protection bolts than anchor bolts--bring trad gear. This area of the cliff is confusing with anchors everywhere and long, easier trad sections between one or two bolt harder sections. This is how we climbed it:
After the first 3 bolts angle a bit right with occasional trad gear to an anchor. Clip a bolt just right of the anchor, step right, and up on moderate but sparsely protected rock to two bolts. Step right from the second bolt to a ledge and an anchor. Continue up moderate trad to another anchor. Step up then straight right at two closely spaced side by side bolts. Maybe 10a. Angle left a bit and up to a ledge. Make a hard move at another bolt, maybe 10b, then angle a bit right towards some dirty orange rock. Climb the final hard section just left of the orange rock at 2 more bolts and continue to the top and the final set of anchors. With two ropes, rap in one rappel slightly right and down Schizofrantic . With one rope, you can rap to the Schizofrantic anchors, and from there, carefully, to the ground with a 60m rope, or rap the route in 2 or more rappels. |