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Unknown Right of Young and Rackless 
Young and the Rackless, The 

Unknown Right of Young and Rackless 

5.9+

   

FA: Unknown
Type: Trad, Sport
Consensus: 5.10- [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Views: 255 page views

Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Jun 30, 2004


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Blob Rock is closed from February 1 to July 31 MORE INFO >>>

At the third and last bolt on the first pitch. The...


Description 

Thirty feet uphill from The Young and the Rackless, spot a line of three bolts heading up a steep wall. This is the route.

Climb up and left past 3 bolts to lower-angled rock. Ramble up another 40' to the anchor. It's probably better to belayfrom here instead of lowering.

Fun climbing on the steep headwall, but the long easy section to the anchor detracts from the route.


Protection 

Three bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. There is a long runout to the anchor on easy climbing after the third bolt; you might want to bring a few small to medium cams if this is a concern.



Add Photo Photos of Unknown Right of Young and Rackless
Contemplating birds and the finish of pitch 2. The P1 anchors can be seen just above the tree branches at the bottom left of the photo. Pitch 2 starts by moving straight right from the P1 anchors, up on trad to 2 bolts (where I am in the photo), and then steps right to a ledge and another set of anchors. Pitches 1 and 2 can be easily combined.<br /><br />Photo by Chuck Graves.

Contemplating birds and the finish of pitch 2. The...


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By Ivan Rezucha
Jan 1, 2005
rating: 5.10b

Ron, you stopped too soon. It's not clear whether, after the first 3 bolts, you angled left to the anchor or angled right to a different anchor. If you go right you can continue to the top past 2 or 3 more intermediate anchors with only slightly more protection bolts than anchor bolts--bring trad gear. This area of the cliff is confusing with anchors everywhere and long, easier trad sections between one or two bolt harder sections. This is how we climbed it:

After the first 3 bolts angle a bit right with occasional trad gear to an anchor. Clip a bolt just right of the anchor, step right, and up on moderate but sparsely protected rock to two bolts. Step right from the second bolt to a ledge and an anchor. Continue up moderate trad to another anchor. Step up then straight right at two closely spaced side by side bolts. Maybe 10a. Angle left a bit and up to a ledge. Make a hard move at another bolt, maybe 10b, then angle a bit right towards some dirty orange rock. Climb the final hard section just left of the orange rock at 2 more bolts and continue to the top and the final set of anchors. With two ropes, rap in one rappel slightly right and down Schizofrantic . With one rope, you can rap to the Schizofrantic anchors, and from there, carefully, to the ground with a 60m rope, or rap the route in 2 or more rappels.