This corner left of Epiphany is nicer and cleaner than it looks. Start just left of Arms Bazaar at the shared start for Epiphany. Work through the steep moves down low, clip the bolt, and head up into a groove. Easy climbing past a two bolt anchor (not sure why its there?) takes you to the base of the flake and dihedral system. Climb the crack with good jams and lieback moves, past the upper crux near the top. The hardest climbing is near the ground by the first bolt, but a section of 10+ or 11- exists near the top of the crack system. The protection is solid throughout.
Protection
A bolt protects the initial (crux) section, a 2 bolt anchor can be clipped above that, then all natural gear to the 2 bolt anchor on top. Medium and large nuts, camming devices (1 each) from 1/2-inch to a #3 Camalot.
This is a really nice route. Well protected, long, with a second crux near the top. The only detraction is a little bid of bird crap and a bit of lichen. There is a blocky section midway up, but it is easy to work around it. I thought this was one of the better gear lines in the canyon.
Surprisingly good and easily overlooked. I never even really noticed it before. D'Antonio's new guidebook doesn't have this route listed and shows it on the topo as Epiphany Variation, but after reading the route description for that on MP (called Epiphany Direct) that route is obviously over to the right, and strays off of Epiphany, as you would expect.
RSS Feed
