At the left side of Ledge Two, to the right of where the trail meets the cliff, is a tree growing against the rock and touching the overhang about 10' up. 15' left of the tree is a hand crack through the overhang. That's Kama Sutra, 10d. Start 8' right of this tree. Climb the ceiling at about 5.10, angle right, and then make some hard thin moves back left at the 4th bolt across a steep slab. The 5th bolt is hidden in the dish above. Don't move right at this steep slab. The silver bolts to the right are MLK. Angle left on easy rock below some serious moss and then up a steep slab with a short hard section. Continue up an easier slab at about 5.9 connecting a series of rounded right facing flakes to a sloping ledge with a 2-bolt anchor. Rappel with two ropes.
Protection
16 bolts with a 2-bolt anchor. A few long slings would be useful. The rope gets pretty heavy near the top due to rope drag. Two ropes to rappel.
Great route. Take the advice on using the long runners down low. Found myself yelling at my belayer for slack at the thin crux clip, when really I screwed up!! A little dirty near the top, so watch the feet. Otherwise a great route.
Fun with several hard moves -- mostly high steps -- betwen the 7th bolt and the anchors. Less fun but more exciting if: (1) you get suckered into climbing straight up at the 5th bolt and, after falling off the crux of MLK twice, realize you're off route and have to downclimb to the 5th bolt to continue; and (2) only have one 60m rope and have to rap 40' to the MLK anchors and then 100' to the ledge in a torrential rain and hail storm.
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