On the exciting but not too hard swing around the ...
Description
This is the leftmost of three bolted lines on the Beer Can. It turns the big roof on the left.
From the top of the Beer Can approach trail, scramble up to a small ledge with a 2-bolt belay anchor on the left side of the Beer Can.
Start with some easy climbing up and right, zig-zagging towards the left side of the huge roof. It's a good idea to use longer runners on these initial bolts. Clip the 5th bolt underneath the roof, and make an airy move out right on jugs (5.9) over the roof. Clip the 6th bolt, then unclip the 5th bolt to minimize rope drag and keep the rope away from the sharp edge of the roof. Above, the wall steepens and some thin face moves (5.10b) are needed to reach the anchor.
Protection
2-bolt belay anchor. 12 bolts to a three-bolt anchor. Bring several longer runners and a 60m rope.
Turning the roof is exciting, but not too hard. I did not unclip the bolt protecting the roof and instead used a long runner. But the first bolt above the roof caused the rope to run around a small corner, and that caused some serious drag later. So maybe unclip the bolt above the roof after clipping the bolt above that.
Clipping the bolt above the big sloping ledge was scary for me. It's a long reach (and I'm tall), and you're a long way above the previous bolt. You have good edge for one hand, but you have to smear up with your feet to make the reach (or worse if you're short). If you blew the clip you'd come flying over the roof and probably hit the wall below. If you're having trouble making this clip, you can traverse right on the sloping ledge and temporarily clip a bolt on Icy Paralyzer.
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Oct 10, 2005 rating: 5.10b
The roof is a fun "no feet" swing through. Why not use feet? Because you don't have to. Monkey-bar like holds don't need them.The crux is up above on the slab and face. Edging shoes or crimping dues, your choice.
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