Sheri Kessler pulling around the Penis Envy Pillar...
Description
This route begins on the far left side of the summit tier of Avalon. From the Wall of the Dead, follow a trail right and up to Avalon's summit tier. Traverse left heading downstream. Pass a short wall with several cracks (Wall of the Goddess) and continue into the woods on a trail right next to the rock.The route starts at a narrow spot on the trail, right next to a curvy 10-foot-high dead tree.
Climb up a somewhat grungy face (moss, lichen), then make an exciting step left at a little roof onto an arete (crux). Continue up the arete to the anchors.
The climbing on the upper half of the route is quite good.
Per Richard Rossiter: There is a second pitch to Ancient Light on the remote NE face of the Third Tier of Avalon. It looks discouraging from the big grassy ledge atop the first pitch, but is actually quite a good outing. The gear is great and easy. Bolts fill in the gaps. Once you get past the frightening detached dick, steep and intricate face climbing leads to a big, comfy ledge with a 2-bolt ring anchor.
Pitch 1. Climb Ancient Light to a big grassy ledge with a 2-bolt ring anchor on the wall above the ledge and belay (10c, 80 feet).
Pitch 2. Work up and right past 2 bolts and pull right around the Penis Envy Pillar. Climb the right side of the pillar to a roof. Lieback through the roof, then climb straight up to a 2-bolt ring anchor on a nice ledge (10c, 5 bolts, 80 feet).
I wouldn't drive all the way from NYC to do this route, but if you love Avalon, this is your cup of tea.
Protection
P1: 8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor at 70'.
If you're going to do the second pitch, continue past the first anchor (on a pedestal just below the grassy ledge) up to the grassy ledge and an anchor on the wall above it. This makes the pitch 80' long with 9 clips instead of 8.
By Ron Olsen Administrator From: Boulder, CO Sep 3, 2005
The second pitch is interesting and varied. Climbing around the pillar and up to its top is quite different from the typical Avalon face climb. Laybacking the roof is straightforward, once you get in the proper position. The upper face was steep and sustained, with a 10b move at the 4th bolt and a 10d move at the fifth bolt. You can climb straight up past the fifth bolt with a long reach to a good pocket, or go left to a flared hand crack.
I placed a #.75 Camalot in the left side of the pillar after the second bolt, a #.5 Camalot and a #3 Camalot after the third bolt, and a yellow Alien after the fifth bolt.
By Ron Olsen Administrator From: Boulder, CO Sep 3, 2005
On the first pitch, the crux traverse left to the arete may be harder than 10a for shorter climbers. At 6'1", I was able to reach some good holds to pull myself across, but my shorter partner had a lot of trouble here. Rossiter's 10c rating may be more accurate for shorter climbers.
If you're going to do the second pitch, continue past the first anchor (on a pedestal just below the grassy ledge) up to the grassy ledge and an anchor on the wall above it. This makes the pitch 80' long with 9 clips instead of 8.
Dirty down low and still plenty of moss on the route. 2nd half is good when you move left to the arete. This was a good link into Ancient Fright to Resurrection to summit Avalon. If you do this, go to the top anchor.
With a few longer slings, doing it as one long pitch is the way to go... you'll want to skip some bolts in easy territory & both inetmediate anchors to keep the drag down, but it's not hard where this is beneficial.
Crack Land
RSS Feed
