I placed green and yellow Aliens between some of the bolts. When there are cracks I bring gear, even on sport climbs. (Explaining, not complaining, although a couple of the bolts are unnecessary.)
This route is awesome and a must-do if you're at the Avalon. I don't know why it wouldn't get at least 2 stars. There's 2 bolts that are not necessary, as gear will protect their moves but the climbing is awesome.
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Jul 27, 2005 rating: 5.10d
Pretty solid climbing and probably like most at the cliff in that it is over graded at least a tad. Nice climb though, with good rock and fun moves. A lot of variety in the holds and moves keeps it interesting. Could get pumpy if you spent a lot of time trying to figure it out.
Young Doug...[Didn't] know the name when we did it. Thought it to be .10c/d-ish. Maybe my ape-index helps, but certainly there are no moves here that would be considered .11a..again, I must consider other benchmark routes at the grade. I am not a cutting-edge climber, but have 20+ years climbing in the Boulder area. I say that to lend some credentials to my stance on the grades. I would say this is a nice pitch, and well worth doing if you are up there..after all Boulder Canyon is a lot about quantity of routes in a day.
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA May 26, 2007
One of the best lines at the cliff! A TCU/Alien just below the 5th bolt is comforting if you're too short to make the clip from the ledge.
Good route with varied climbing. Even a little bit of finger crack underclinging. Not an 11 but still a worthwhile climb to do.
CL
By patrick kadel From: Boulder CO Jul 14, 2008 rating: 5.10b
I am short, Alien not needed. High left foot and and good crimp in the crack allows to go up, clip the bolt and lower back down to the restful stance. The move is secure and quicker than placing an Alien a foot below a bolt.