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Tarot Wall
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Constant Gardener (aka the Pursuit of Fappiness), The 
Devil, The 
Earth Angel 
Fapanese Direct 
Fool, The 
Goat F***er 
Hanged Man, The 
Horse, The 
Lust 
Magician, The 
Tower, The 
Wheel of Fortune 

The Tower 

5.9

   

FA: Richard Rossiter, Serena Benson, Erik Volk, Chris Berg, 2001
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.9+ [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 100 feet
Views: 1,583 page views

Submitted By: Ivan Rezucha on Oct 23, 2003


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BETA PHOTO: The Tower. The crux is at the fourth bolt, with p...


Description 

The fifth bolted line from the left on Tarot Wall. Start 20' right of The Fool and 15' left of Wheel of Fortune, at a face leading to a big roof.

Climb the moderate face with a couple of harder moves to the left edge of the big roof above. Pull left around the roof to a ledge then step back right above the roof onto a knobby face. Enter the right-facing corner above. At its top exit left and up easy climbing to the anchor.

Rossiter rates this 10a, but I felt it was significantly easier than its neighbor Wheel of Fortune, also rated 10a by Rossiter. There were no specific crux moves.


Protection 

12 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with rings. Bring a few longer runners for the bolts just below the roof. 60m rope required to rap or lower.

This should have been left as a trad climb. There is good and easily-placed gear at every bolt except for the third bolt.



Photos of The Tower Slideshow Add Photo
Nickie Kelly approaching the crux at the fourth bolt.

Nickie Kelly approaching the crux at the fourth bo...

Nickie Kelly at the crux.  Her right foot is smeared, and it's a long reach to insecure handholds.

Nickie Kelly at the crux. Her right foot is smear...

Nickie Kelly turning the lower roof; easier than it looks.

Nickie Kelly turning the lower roof; eas...

Nickie Kelly at the second crux: stepping right into the V-corner.

Nickie Kelly at the second crux: stepping right in...

Nickie Kelly making the airy move left at the top of the V-corner.

Nickie Kelly making the airy move left at the top ...

Christina goes 4 the Tower!

Christina goes 4 the Tower!

On the slab above the second bolt.

On the slab above the second bolt.

On the slab.

On the slab.

Stretching for the roof clip.

Stretching for the roof clip.

Fourth bolt on The Tower (5.9).

Fourth bolt on The Tower (5.9).

Preparing to clip the roof bolt.

Preparing to clip the roof bolt.


Comments on The Tower Add Comment
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By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 24, 2003
rating: 5.10a

This is a fun route and one of the best of its grade at Avalon. Bring a 60m rope; the route is 100' long. If you lower, be aware that the climbing line is well left of the lowering line, and the rope runs right over the edge of the roof. It's easiest to have the second clean the pitch while following.

The hardest moves on the climb: at the 4th bolt below the roof and stepping right into the corner above the roof (crux). Seemed like 10a by Boulder Canyon sport-climb standards.

By Dave Loring
May 7, 2005

Good route. I thought the 10a crux was on the upper half of the route, pulling onto the face then up into the awkward right-facing corner.

By kyle lefkoff
Aug 24, 2005
rating: 5.10a

This is an excellent, moderate route, and I agree with Ron on its 10a rating. Kudos to Richard for establishing this splendid sector.

By Skat
Jul 5, 2007

Great route! Maybe it was the exposure, but the first move above the roof and into/up the right-facing corner felt at least 10a. Also, I would recommend the leader belay the second from the anchors as the rope runs right through a nasty crack at the top of the corner/second roof creating huge rope drag and cutting potential. There is plenty of space to belay from the anchors.

By kevinnlong
From: Boulder, CO
May 28, 2008
rating: 5.10a

If a slingshot belay is desired, the leader can be lowered just just left of the climb. This reduces the rope drag, but a belay at the anchors would be better.

Also, to second the opinion, this would (and still could be lead as) an excellent trad climb.

By Robby Cribbs
Aug 21, 2009
rating: 5.10a

Definitely felt like 10a. And, did this with a 70 meter rope and had only 10 ft of rope to spare. If you're using a 60 meter, be sure to tie in or knot the ends.