BETA PHOTO: The Tower. The crux is at the fourth bolt, with p...
Description
The fifth bolted line from the left on Tarot Wall. Start 20' right of The Fool and 15' left of Wheel of Fortune, at a face leading to a big roof.
Climb the moderate face with a couple of harder moves to the left edge of the big roof above. Pull left around the roof to a ledge then step back right above the roof onto a knobby face. Enter the right-facing corner above. At its top exit left and up easy climbing to the anchor.
Rossiter rates this 10a, but I felt it was significantly easier than its neighbor Wheel of Fortune, also rated 10a by Rossiter. There were no specific crux moves.
Protection
12 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with rings. Bring a few longer runners for the bolts just below the roof. 60m rope required to rap or lower.
This should have been left as a trad climb. There is good and easily-placed gear at every bolt except for the third bolt.
By Ron Olsen From: Boulder, CO Oct 24, 2003 rating: 5.10a
This is a fun route and one of the best of its grade at Avalon. Bring a 60m rope; the route is 100' long. If you lower, be aware that the climbing line is well left of the lowering line, and the rope runs right over the edge of the roof. It's easiest to have the second clean the pitch while following.
The hardest moves on the climb: at the 4th bolt below the roof and stepping right into the corner above the roof (crux). Seemed like 10a by Boulder Canyon sport-climb standards.
Great route! Maybe it was the exposure, but the first move above the roof and into/up the right-facing corner felt at least 10a. Also, I would recommend the leader belay the second from the anchors as the rope runs right through a nasty crack at the top of the corner/second roof creating huge rope drag and cutting potential. There is plenty of space to belay from the anchors.
By kevinnlong From: Boulder, CO May 28, 2008 rating: 5.10a
If a slingshot belay is desired, the leader can be lowered just just left of the climb. This reduces the rope drag, but a belay at the anchors would be better.
Also, to second the opinion, this would (and still could be lead as) an excellent trad climb.
Definitely felt like 10a. And, did this with a 70 meter rope and had only 10 ft of rope to spare. If you're using a 60 meter, be sure to tie in or knot the ends.