BETA PHOTO: Mists of Avalon. The crux is at the third and fou...
Description
Mists of Avalon is on the First Tier of Avalon. Cross the creek, hike the big talus to the lowest point of rock and walk left about 20' along the base on a dirt path to the first large tree. Above is a roof. The arete above the right side of the roof is bolted and is Catch and Release. Mists of Avalon climbs easy blocky rock right of a right facing-corner to the roof.
Climb easy rock past two bolts to a dirty ledge below an A-shaped notch in the roof. [Eds. there are some fractured holds here, beware.] Clip a bolt at the lip then stem through the roof with good hands. Make a really long clip and then swing right onto the face and semi-mantle a small ledge, or swing right first before clipping. The roof and getting established on the face is the crux. Pleasant and progressively easier climbing, with good clipping stances, leads to the anchors.
Protection
8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor with rings. Bring two long slings if you are going to thread the anchor, since the bolts are too high to clip with draws.
By Ron Olsen Administrator From: Boulder, CO Aug 20, 2004 rating: 5.10a
Grungy down low, but excellent climbing from the roof to the top. The crux is getting established on the steep slab above the roof, and it can be done in two different ways, as Ivan mentions. I climbed straight up to the fourth bolt, and my partner stemmed up left and then stepped right at the fourth bolt. From here, climb the steep slab on thin 5.9 edges to the top.
By Tony B From: Boulder, CO Jul 30, 2005 rating: 5.10a
Great route with some history from my point of view- something that speaks of vision and forward thinking. When I first stumbled across this route, not long after the FA, I had no clue what it was. I pretty much bagged on it on CB.com in my description submitted for the Lower Tier of Avalon. Remember, at the time there was little known or published about the area or the route. I complained that it was a worthless and dirty piece of junk. Moss and lichen all over, crumbling holds on the face, sharp, etc...
The ugly duckling did not become a beautiful swan or anything here, but it is at least a stately goose. The route has cleaned up nicely and is now a testament to the forward thinking and vision of Richard for equipping it. Crow tastes like chicken once I get past the feathers, I guess. Nice addition to the wall. Long and pleasant- one of the better routes here.
By Ryan Bibler From: Denver Jun 5, 2006 rating: 5.10a
I think this is one of the better routes at this crag. The start is a little junky, so it looks like it doesn't get climbed much, but pulling the roof and gaining the steep slab above was interesting and fun.
This was my first roof, pretty fun and great for a beginner due to the staging area you have just below the overhang.
By Kat A From: Bart and Lisa Ville, CO Oct 14, 2006
This is a nice climb. Tricky for someone short without the ape-factor (I'm 5'4") to clip that 3rd bolt from the ledge before committing to the roof - I baaaarely reached it on tip-toes (a fall here would be ugly). For anyone taller, this isn't an issue. The roof to slab transition is awesome, as well as the slab finish.
By Ryan M From: Broomfield, CO May 2, 2007 rating: 5.10a
Fun fun.
I wish it was on the north side!! So cold!!
But it was fun, the crux is the roof and to the fourth bolt.
Then after that, it's cake.
By Matt Gates From: Pinewood Springs, CO Jun 15, 2007 rating: 5.10a
Going straight up at the roof is burly but very rewarding. Move up quickly after clipping the fourth bolt and you will find a very nice rest.
Great climb! One of the best 10s at Avalon. Moves over the roof felt a bit tougher than 10a... but perhaps they're 10a if you have good roof technique. Fun thin slab climbing above. Really a great line.
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