This is the leftmost route on the Clipboard. Immediately to its right is The Clipboard (11a). An excellent route with continuously engaging climbing past the last 3 bolts. Seems a soft touch for 12a. Would deserve another star if it were longer.
Interesting climbing on oddly textured rock. At least two letter grades harder than the adjacent Clipboard.
By Peter Beal From: Boulder Colorado Sep 26, 2004 rating: 5.11c
Who cares about the rating? This route has some of the best rock in the canyon and if it were another 30 or 40 feet long would be among the best pitches of its kind on the Front Range. Pockets on bombproof granite, crux at the top=must-do route.
Peter, It seems you care about the rating seeing as you down rated it.
By Peter Beal From: Boulder Colorado Sep 27, 2004 rating: 5.11c
AC has a good point. I'll respond by saying that I merely gave an opinion without added comment such as "No way is this 12a". If I'm outvoted I'm fine with that. I'm still saying that no matter what the grade, this route is well worth climbing by anyone who makes the hike. I'll add that I had a much harder time with the route to the right, to the contrary of most posted opinion.
Great [climbing], interesting moves, sequence is key. Like Clipboard, if it were twice as long, it would be an area destination. Maybe rope up and fire them back to back for a 80' of great rock and moves. The grade however... I can rarely flash 5.12. 11d is hard for me and it should feel really hard. I should have more trouble than this with torn ligamnets and an [immobilized] left ankle... I almost would say 11b, but maybe the splint makes it easier to front-point small holds? 11c seemed like a maximum.
Young Doug...Whew! This felt a lot steeper when I got on it vs. standing at the bottom and looking up! Ha Ha! Just skip the last bolt, and throw for the Thank God ledge! Nothing up here is as necky as their neighbors 8-miles south...Perhaps serious thought needs to be given to the grading bar that is Eldo...Lumpy..etc. My 2-cents..thanks for listening..or not.
For what it's worth, I found this considerably harder than Freefall. But I guess that only goes to show that I have crappy footwork, or something. I do agree with the above comments about the quality though. The rock is some of the more interesting rock found in Boulder Canyon.
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