A partial mantle at the crux. The route moves righ...
Description
Into the Mystic starts from "Ledge One", which is just right of some stone steps at the second steep bit on the trail along the base. As a further reference (I missed Ledge One the first time), high on the upper wall, directly above the stone steps, is a prominent double tree. The climb starts about 20 feet right of the trail at a cluster of trees. A tricky move off the ground followed by moderate climbing leads to the third bolt and two hard moves with a good rest in between. Easy slabs lead the rest of the way to "Ledge Two". Continue on Mystic Mile (10c) for a total of 3 pitches of 10 sport. A decent climb with some good moves, but the upper half is real easy.
By Ron Olsen Administrator From: Boulder, CO Oct 25, 2003 rating: 5.10a
A fun route that seemed a little harder than 10a. Bring a #.75 or #1 Camalot sized piece to anchor the belayer; the starting ledge is exposed and it's a dicey move to the first clip. The crux is a difficult mantel past the third bolt. The route is 95' long.
By Ron Olsen Administrator From: Boulder, CO Sep 12, 2004 rating: 5.10a
The step onto the pedestal at the third bolt is done more easily by stemming off the left wall. Excellent climbing past the first four bolts, but it eases significantly from there to the anchors.
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Aug 5, 2006 rating: 5.9
OK route on OK stone. Better to climb up to ledge two than to hike it though- more fun than the trail.
Nice route and thought the rock was generally good though the route was a little dirty getting to ledge 2. Getting to the first bolt is not trivial and the mantle move is more difficult if you are tall. Very much worth doing. I'd give it more than 1 star and a rating of 9-10a.
Beware of loose rock. A party before us knocked down a rock the size of a basketball as the second came up to ledge 2- it surely would have killed someone if it had hit them.
By Justin Cantrall From: Boulder, CO Sep 30, 2008 rating: 5.9+ PG13
That was probably us. I led the route and didn't have any loose rock experiences, but my second pulled off a big rock. (ROCK! ROCK!) Our third was still below and apparently James & co. as well. Yikes.
The section where the rock was pulled from is in the upper third of the route, below ledge 2. It's really easy climbing there, but there are rocks loose in dirt, so beware and climb carefully.
Overall a fun route though. For me the hardest and scariest moves were right off the deck getting to the first bolt. I didn't have too much trouble with the mantle and I am tall; but it is awkward.
Ledge One
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