Marga Powell moving left into the crux of the seco...
Description
Follow the directions to the Main Wall of Solaris. This is the first route you run across. From the base of the route, it is difficult to see the second pitch, but you can see the beefy bolts for the first.
The first pitch doesn't look too inspiring. Rossiter's site calls it 5.7. I guess there is a 7 move in there, but the first 'pitch' is really there to get to the better climbing up above. Clip four bolts to the anchor on a nice ledge with a bit of loose rock.
The second pitch is fun. This was our last climb for the day, and it felt a bit hard for 9 but probably due to tiredness. From the belay, you can clip the first bolt, then move up, clip, make a strenuous layback move, and keep going up. Toward the end of the pitch, you pull onto a slab for a couple moves, then continue up to the anchor on a nice ledge with a great view.
It would be possible to walk off from here, but rapping the route is certainly more convenient. We had a 70m rope and even with the long cord it took two raps to get down - the 70m would have left about 15' of downclimbing.
I wouldn't go to Solaris for this route, but if you're there it's worth getting on it.
PS. I'm sure you can climb this in one pitch....
Protection
Described on Rossiter's site as two pitches. First has 4 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor, second has 8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.
The second pitch is a fun one. Some well protected moves on big jugs, with less than stellar feet. Definitely worth a go if you're in the area. The first pitch isn't great, but it's over quickly.
Watch out for loose rock on this one. If you look at the beta photo for the first pitch, there is a pretty well-defined block just below the second bolt. That is not there anymore because it peeled off when I was climbing and came within inches of causing some serious damage to my partner's head. Lots of lichen on the rock as well.
By Steve Marr From: Lakewood, Washington Aug 7, 2006 rating: 5.9
I thought this was a great route, and definitely worth the visit. The first pitch felt a little harder than 5.7 at the third bolt. You can't see the P1 anchors until you are past the fourth bolt and pull up onto the ledge. The second pitch was a lot of fun - great climbing throughout on great rock. The crux comes early at the second bolt, followed by a fun transition from face to slab just below the anchors. The anchors are in a great position with good views up the canyon. Definitely recommended.
By Tony B From: Boulder, CO Aug 30, 2006 rating: 5.9 PG13
This route falls into the grey area of what should or should not be bolted. After leading it last night without clipping any of the bolts, I found it to be significantly better and more engaging when done trad and as a single pitch. Why I say that this is a 'grey area' climb is that there are some runouts or difficult areas to place gear. A beginner at this level should not attempt the lead. An experienced leader should be OK. Take a set of cams from .3" to 2.5" and a set of nuts and a significant number of slings, since the pitch is long and wanders a little. The stars, difficulty, and protection grade I give here are accounting for doing it trad.
Excellent climb for your first multi-pitch experience. Well bolted, great ledges and no move harder than 5.9. While not the greatest route in the area, it's worth getting on.
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