Mike Amato making a delicate 5.9 slab move at the ...
Description
Black Rain is just to the right of Jungle of Stone , and shares the first bolt with that route. It follows a prominent black water streak.
Approach: From the upper end of the parking area across from the Boulderado, find some large boulders that practically span the creek. There is a large tree stump on the opposite side of the creek by these boulders. Wade the creek (or walk across the boulders in the fall) to the tree stump, and find a trail angling right up the talus, heading toward the Beer Can. Near the top of this trail, take a fork heading left toward Sleeping Beauty. Follow this trail downstream, below Sleeping Beauty, as far as you can, then zig-zag up a series of vegetated ledges, aiming for the leftmost area of climbable rock on Sleeping Beauty. You will eventually scramble up right to reach a ledge with three routes: Jungle of Stone (a right-facing corner capped by a roof), Black Rain (a black water streak just to the right of Jungle of Stone ), and Water Spirit (a three-inch crack 40' right of Black Rain).
Begin behind a large pine tree close to the rock. Climb up 15' by mossy rock to the first bolt. Angle up right, heading for the black water streak. Follow the line of bolts up the water streak, with a 5.9 move at the third bolt and a 10b crux between the 5th and 6th bolts. Continue up to a small tree, and finish on a 5.8 slab with 3 more bolts to the anchor. The final slab and the anchor are shared with Jungle of Stone. Belay from a good ledge at the anchor. The climbing route is 130' long.
Rappel 110' with two ropes, or one 70m rope, back to the start. It may be possible to rappel with one 60m rope if you angle the rappel to higher ground on the right.
Our party thought the crux was lower down, at the 3rd and 4th bolts, but agree there is one tricky move higher. The upper part is much easier than it looks from below.
By Ron Olsen Administrator From: Boulder, CO Sep 12, 2004 rating: 5.10a
The climb seemed easier than when I did it last fall. I'd almost say 9+, but I'll leave it at 10a for now. Delicate step-up moves at the third and fourth bolts, and a short layback between the fifth and sixth bolts were the hardest parts. An undercling up a ramp at the second bolt was the most fun.
You can rappel back to the start with a 70m rope with about five feet of rope to spare.
By Ron Olsen Administrator From: Boulder, CO Aug 17, 2005 rating: 5.10a
There is a 5.7 layback about 5' above the 6th bolt; you can place a pink tricam and/or a blue/green hybrid Alien to protect this move if you want.
South Pillar
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