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Black Widow Slab
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Kate Moss 

5.10b/c

   

FA: Vaino Kodas and Bob D'Antonio
New Route: Yes
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.10 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 120 feet
Views: 911 page views

Submitted By: Jake Wyatt on Sep 9, 2003


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Mike Amato starting up Kate Moss. The climbing is...


Description 

This route lies on the left-side of the rock, just left of "Consilence". This is a long pitch and a 60 meter rope will not get you to the ground. Tie a knot in the end of the rope and have your belayer walk up and left so you can reach the ground. Or trail a rope and rappel off. Nice face and slab climbing is the highlight of this route. There is a fair amount of moss on the route, so those who don't like a little dirt might want to stay away. The route has a alpine feel and with more ascents will get cleaner. A nice warm-up for the the harder routes on this wall.


Protection 

Fifteen bolts will get you to a two-bolt anchor. A 60 meter rope will not get you to the ground. Be careful!!!



Add Photo Photos of Kate Moss
Kate Moss

BETA PHOTO: Kate Moss

James at the anchor.

James at the anchor.

Marga Powell moving left into the crux section halfway up the pitch.

Marga Powell moving left into the crux section hal...

Starting the moves at the diagonal finger crack. It feels a bit like cheating here, climbing left of the bolt.

Starting the moves at the diagonal finger crack. I...

Finshing the moves at the diagonal finger crack.

Finshing the moves at the diagonal finger crack.

High up on the last difficult moves.

High up on the last difficult moves.

Mike R high on the no-longer-mossy route. The clean, diamond-shaped slab to his right is the crux of Consilience.

Mike R high on the no-longer-mossy route. The clea...


Add Comment Comments on Kate Moss
Show which comments —
By Bob D'Antonio
From: Superior, CO
Sep 9, 2003

This route is on Black Widow Rock. Hit the wrong rock.

By Kirk Miller
From: Golden, CO
Jun 7, 2004
rating: 5.10c

What a great route! Excellent, sustained, varied movement over a long pitch. Nice shade for a hot summer day, with a reasonably comfortable belay zone. A 70 meter rope just makes it back down from the anchors. Thanks Vaino and Bob.

By Ron Olsen
Administrator
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 17, 2004
rating: 5.10c

Even with the moss, the moves are so good that this is a three-star climb. Sustained, interesting climbing from bottom to top. Bring a 70m rope or two ropes; the pitch is about 130' long.

By Greg Hand
From: Golden, CO
Jul 19, 2004
rating: 5.10c

I was put off going to this climb by all the moss talk. If you have to touch any moss, you have wandered off route. This is a fantastic climb. Probably the best sport route of its grade in the canyon. On a hot afternoon, it is a most pleasant location with a natural swamp cooler nearby. Plus, there are two harder routes at the same location. Bring two ropes, or a real loooooong one.

By Jake Wyatt
From: Longmont, CO
Aug 4, 2004

Still a bit dirty, but intricate, varied and sustained. This is a top-notch pitch!

By S. Kimball
Jun 27, 2005

Perhaps a bit of mass hysteria here,unless B and V have a 2nd pitch planned, i'd have left it to the mosses.

By tooTALLtim
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 20, 2007
rating: 5.10b

Wasn't that much fun. Go Plotinus Wall if you REALLY want to get on some good .10s. Vaino and Bob hit it on the head over there. Chore Boy and Mr. Sandman are excellent!

By Brendan Leonard
From: Denver, Hollarado
May 30, 2008

I had a blast on this route. Lots of fun moves, and maybe most of the offending moss is gone now? Whatever. We used a 70-meter rope and still didn't reach the ground -- my partner lowered me to the end of the rope and I untied from about 5 feet up, where there was a good stance.