Dead Again 

CAUTION: The bolts at the top of this climb are loose. They wiggle in place and do not instill confidence. I am not sure if simply tightening the bolt itself will help as it almost seems the holes themselves have been widened.

A fun route with strenuous laybacks and precise footwork needed through the start. I thought it was as hard as Tomb, and like that route, had good climbing right to the (too short!) end.

Dead Again is the next bolted line left of Dead Can Dance. Although Rossiter rates it .10d, it's not as hard as the other .10d's and .10c's at Avalon, but harder than Slayer -- .10b -- on the First Tier. How 'bout .10b/c

I felt this route is easily .10c and probably .10d. I've done many other 10cs and 10ds at Avalon, and I felt it was right on par with those routes. It felt much more difficult than Marquis de Sade on the other side of the crag, which is 10c. It might have been more difficult for me because I'm only 5'4''. Either way, I felt it was a good route.

At 5.10 and under, this is the funnest route I've done at this area. Safe bolting makes it enjoyable for those challenged at the grade. .10a seems a little low. Rossiter's .10d rating was almost enough to scare me off--don't let it stop you!

The crux move up in the middle felt a bit harder than anything on its neighbor Isle of the Dead. Fun moves moving out and up from the undercling to the flake.

I'd give the *crux* of this route a 10c rating when compared to other routes in the canyon. The top and bottom of the route seemed easier... all in all this a great route with solid moves on positive holds. Good route for the aspiring 10+ leader.

-KT

Good warmup. Slabby crux. Smear feet.