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Black Widow Slab
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Gyromancy 

5.11a

   

FA: Vaino Kodas and Bob D'Antonio
New Route: Yes
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.11a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Views: 247 page views

Submitted By: Bob D'Antonio on Aug 28, 2003


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Mike Amato high-stepping onto the arete at the thi...


Description 

This route start 15 feet right of "Consilience" and climbs an obvious blunt-arete to a two bolt anchor. The route climbs a lot better than it looks from the ground with a couple of hard moves on the arete. Cool moves up the arete to the crux near the fourth bolt. Reach a good two-finger pocket and one last hard move gets you to the anchor. Good route from the hard-working Mr. Kodas.


Protection 

Six clips will get you to a two-bolt andchor



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Consilience

BETA PHOTO: Consilience

Marga Powell at the crux between the third and fourth bolts.  The third bolt is by her right leg; the fourth bolt is visible just above her right arm. Taller climbers will be able to clip the fourth bolt before this move; shorter climbers may find that the clip is just out of reach from the last good stance.

Marga Powell at the crux between the third and fou...


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By Ray Snead
Sep 1, 2003

Very good, with several baffling cruxes. Three people did the hard bit at the fourth bolt three different ways, but all were fully engaged higher and wondering what Bob would consider to be a "bad" two finger pocket.

This isn't one of Vaino's typcial Mr. Science names... were you going around in circles looking for Divination?

By Ron Olsen
Administrator
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 17, 2004
rating: 5.11a

An excellent pitch. Fun moves, clean rock. Sustained, thoughtful climbing from the fourth bolt to the top. The two-finger pocket is really good!Would be a three-star route if it were twice as long.

By Anonymous Coward
Sep 23, 2005

Young Doug...I led this route, and my partner Kevin led it's neighbor to the left. Both of us agree that this route was a full number-grade easier..We also both agree that this route was not as hard as Super Slab. mmmm.