Step off the block in the drainage gully and clip a bolt that leads you up a low angle ramp/dihedral. A little confusing as to what Rick was looking for here. Clips are on the wall, however, we used the ramp on the right since climbing the face seemed loads harder than 5.11. Make a hard move off a deep jam for the super-protected crux and finish on an improbable fin. Cool move at the end.
I am 5'11" and could not reach the sloper out to the right from the jam for the life of me. My buddy barely reached it and he is 6'0" (he stemmed the seam to the left of the jam crack with his left foot which might have made all the difference. My hamstrings did not allow me to make this stretch!). He then somehow hung on to the sloper, adjusted his feet and then crossed thru to the fin. Not your typical 11b! More like 12a? Did we miss something?
By Kevin Neilson From: Boulder Jul 13, 2008 rating: 5.11d
I dispute the 11b rating for the crux as well. I was able to RP the second attempt, but I'm 6'1" and think anyone much shorter would have trouble reaching the sloper. The crux is just after clipping the last bolt. Then you jam the left hand as far to the right as you can. Get the left foot as high as possible and reach up and right for the sloper. I was able to get my tips on it. I'd tried dynoing to it on my first foray; it's too slopey for that. Then you have to cross over with the left hand, grab the fin, and do a few burly layback moves to the top. It's really a great move if you're tall enough. Unfortunately, the route itself warrants few stars because the bottom 2/3 follows the lame rightward-tending dihedral.
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