I'm posting this photo here until a beta photo get...
Description
This stellar roof crack is about 15 feet right of the main dihedral (Diet of Worms, 5.10a) on the crag. Climb the hand and fist crack over a bulge 8' off the ground to gain the no-hands rest directly below the roof crack. The roof takes good pro and the fall is clean (trust me...I tried it out). Fun stemming moves and strenuous jams will get you near the lip of the roof, but you have to get horizontal in the crack before you can clear the bulge. Pop over the roof and you're done.I was able to set a TR to the right of the crack and lower off to belay from the ground. There is some rope drag as the rope tries to wedge at the lip of the roof, but it isn't bad, and lowering off lets you enjoy watching your partner as they grunt out the roof.Surprisingly, this route doesn't get a star in Rossiter's book. I would've given it 3 stars on this site, except for its length. The gymnastic moves and good jams will produce a bigger pump than you might expect from a 30' route. If only it had a 100' hand crack leading up to the roof it might get the 3 stars.
Protection
This route is short enough to be done with a single rack of cams. The most obvious anchor would require a second #3 Camalot (having used one on the pitch) but if you look up and right you can get an anchor with the .5 and .75 that you didn't use on the route.
By Tony Bubb From: Boulder, CO Jul 18, 2005 rating: 5.11b
Probably a little stiff for 11b, but might have seemed easier if I had taped up. I am writing this with holes torn in my hands from the crystals in the jam over the roof. Fun regardless. Would be 3 stars if it was a 100' pitch, but it isn't. A single set of cams from .5" to 3.5" are the pro, and I used a few med/large nuts for a bomber directional before starting the roof. The second may encounter some issues if they plan to hangdog- I would imagine that they [might end] up pretty low after a fall, particularly with any slings on the pro below the roof.
As well, like the roof on Vertigo in Eldo, the rope gets sucked into the crack and maybe into the gear. Be mindful and consider taking a hex for a "bearing" placing it sideways out at the edge of the roof to keep the rope out. Set a 2.5" cam above for a directional, then belay up and right (climber's right) on a big sling ([boulder]) and a large solid tree.
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