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Hillbilly Rock 1
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I Reckon 

5.12a

   

FA: Vaino Kodas and Bob D'Antonio, 2001
New Route: Yes
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.12a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Views: 107 page views

Submitted By: Mark Dixon on May 12, 2003


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BETA PHOTO: Hillbilly Rock #1, Left Side. I Reckon, 12a...


Description 

The leftmost route at Hillbilly- up a short black face. Short, powerful, sharp but not painful. An exercise in crimpers and underclings. Avoid surprises by scoping the location of all the bolts before leaving the ground. I thought 12a was a reasonable grade, but it's a hard route to onsight since many of the holds are hard to evaluate (or even see!) from below.

Addendum: For the Hymenoptera-sensitive, there can be a fairly tenacious bunch of wasps on this climb!


Protection 

4 bolts plus anchors.



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By Kevin Neilson
From: Boulder
Sep 21, 2008

This is a nice, short 12 that makes the walk up worthwhile. Rolofson shows three 12 cruxes (12a, 12b, and 12a), but I don't agree with this assessment. Clipping the first two bolts is much easier than 12. From there, reach up and left to the sidepull. This is the crux section, but is easy 12, not mid-12. A key hold is a crimper ledge above and right of bolt three; don't mess around with the slopey stuff left of 3. Another cruxy move follows to get to bolt 4.