By Gully 

A very worthwhile but, unfortunately, overlooked route. Anyone who thinks they are solid on 5.9 should go and give this route a try.

Good technique goes a long way on this one, so lack of technique will earn you a thrashing. One reality about seconding this is that if you slide out of the slot you can't get back in and have to be lowered to the ground. This climb belongs in Yosemite, or is at least good training for nasty Yosemite wide cracks.

Way impressive that Joe (in the photo) is leading this thing without knee pads! Full body armor recommended. Good warm up for Coffin Crack!

I wonder why it's so rarely climbed?

Fun route, I plan to redpoint it once I have healed.

The first time I tried this was left side in and I got 'thrashed'. The second time up a fist jam after the bolt allowed me to stuff my right shoulder in and after a bit of sissy kicking the rest of the route was dispatched with a minimal donation of epidermal tissue. Two stars for sure.

Those "5.9+" moves to get into the darn thing sure felt hard to me. I thought it was harder than Coffin Crack, to the left, which gets 10b. I did do this climb left-side in. Above comment suggests that's wrong, but it seemed best to me- maybe it wasn't right?
Also, I placed my #4 Camalot low (left of the bolt) and ended up runout above.

I thought this thing was way harder than Coffin Crack. We actually warmed up on the other one, and although I probably looked as equally pathetic on both routes, this one gave me relatively less grief. The moves from the face into the OW were the business to me. Next step, red point!

A single set from #1 to #6 C4, with possibly two #4s, will protect this route nicely.
Took me several attempts to get a redpoint on this one, but I learned a lot about offwidth climbing in the process.
Yeah, it's a bit harder than a 5.10 OW, that's why it's rated 5.9+!

Right side in, I found plenty of good holds on the sidewall to help, and some solid handjams. There's still plenty of chicken winging.

Josh L. replaced the bolt last night during our Tuesday night offwidth assault meeting.

I once took a huge fall onto that quarter inch bolt. I somehow just got spat out of the thing!

Traversing left to the anchor on Coffin Crack avoids a final bulge that is worth climbing. It is a few more OW moves over this bulge (a #5 C4 protected it well), and was a good finish to the route. A TR anchor can be built in the crack with gear in the 1"-3" range. It does add a bit of hassle when you are ready to clean the anchor, but the Coffin Crack anchor is only about 6' away. You can swing over to the CC anchor, rethread your rope through that, and then "lead" back out to get the gear anchor from By Gully.

As others have said, this route took me a few tries to lead, but taught me a lot about OW along the way. Highly recommended.

Regarding Left or Right side in--I've tried both and found Left side in to be a little easier, but the difference is minor.

A bolt has been added to the sling anchor at the top of Coffin Crack, so it's a much better rap station now.

First Ascent: Royal Robbins and PAT AMENT, 1964.

I remember a time when this really felt 5.9+. We were all better at squeeze chimneys before cams because the arm bar was often the best pro on the rack.