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The Lower Tier
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Unknown Sport Climb 
Wonky 

Unknown Sport Climb 

5.9

   

FA: Unknown
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 40 feet
Views: 384 page views

Submitted By: Tony Bubb on May 18, 2003


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BETA PHOTO: This is the route. Real simple.


Description 

This route is not marked in Rossiter's Bihedral section of the Boulder Canyon book and is not apparently described on this site yet. This seemed to be the buttress 'below' route #1 in Rossiter's topo. From the normal approach to the Bihedral, just before the scrambling starts off of the trail, take a sharp left and go west to a short buttress with several bolted routes on it. This is the second bolted route from the right, starting about 15' left of Leave No Trace. See beta photo. We found this route after the westward walk-off from the Bihedral route.

The route is safely bolted, but without long slings, the rope runs funny, particularly between the 2nd and 3rd bolts (or was it 1st and 2nd) where the rope goes sharply left over a dark sharp corner/flake. Using 2' sling on the lower and upper kept this a little better. It's not a bad climb, there's just not much to it. Rap from the rings to keep from abusing your rope; don't lower off.

Does anyone know the history of this route?

Addendum: There is a 2nd pitch with 3 bolts, a #1 Camalot & orange Alien can be useful, 5.8, 70', 2-bolt anchor. See Like a Wonk.


Protection 

A set of 4 draws + some for the anchor.



Add Photo Photos of Unknown Sport Climb
Routes on the left side of the Lower Tier.<br /><br />From a photo by Greg Hand.

BETA PHOTO: Routes on the left side of the Lower Tier.

From a...


up there

up there

Peter Dillon getting ready to crank past the first bolt.

Peter Dillon getting ready to crank past the first...

Above the difficulties. Photo by Lenny Miller.

Above the difficulties. Photo by Lenny Miller.

There are two moves on this climb. This is the first. Getting to here is a little dicey. The climbing is easy, but the rock is very suspect.

There are two moves on this climb. This is the fir...


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By pfwein
May 8, 2006
rating: 5.9

Not worth too much by itself, but had a decent move or two and is a nice extra pitch when doing Calling All Trad Climbers etc.