This route is just to the right of Hands Off. Short, sweet, and hard. The long list of hard men that put this is up probably tribute to that. The hardest moves are right from the beginning with very small fingers and marginal feel (for a 5.8 climber anyway). It gets easier (ha) as you ascent with a good shallow hand jam to rest on half way up. It's only 40-50 feet long, but it gives a good work out.
Protection
Small, small gear, maybe a #1. Anything goes for an anchor.
This is way stiff at 5.9+ in my opinion. I thought [Dementia] (5.10a) was easier than this climb. The crux is right off the ground with poor feet and bad hands. I wanted so bad to get a good finger lock in the crack but just couldn't fit my digits in there. The pro is very good with small stoppers, blue and green Aliens. Be careful with your pro placements as I came within a foot or two of decking when I missed a clip. With that said, it seems like a very balancy climb that is much more about finesse and sequence than power. A good problem but more in the 5.10 range.
There's a very large boulder at the top and a little to the left for the anchor that looks solid, don't use it. I originally slung it with a runner. Then looked a little closer and gave it a little nudge, it moved, pushing it a little harder might have brought it down.
Happy Hour Crag
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