Nickie Kelly stepping into the corner halfway up t...
Description
This climb is well featured and fun. Climb a slab to a small ledge with a large tree. Then head up the right-facing dihedral to its top. Step left and follow another crack to the top.
Protection
Standard rack, mainly nuts and small to medium cams.
This was my first trad lead... it takes perfect pro - but I did a terrible job with rope drag... for other beginner leaders make sure you extend your slings and take care to keep your rope out of various cracks 'cuz I am just glad the climb ended when it did or i couldn't have gone further if I wanted to
By Jeremy Hakes From: Golden, Colorado Sep 25, 2006
There is a fixed cam (NOT coming out) about 1/2 way up in the dihedral crack on your left.
Bolt anchors recently added by Rossiter are nearly out of reach for short people. Being one of those short people, I found the crux of the route was trying to stretch to get slings onto the rings. Placing a microcam in small pocket left of the bolts for a safety helps make it a little more secure, so I didn't peel of the ledge trying to clip the left ring.
By DFrench From: The Shrew, MA Jul 21, 2007 rating: 5.4
*A note of caution to any who desire to TR this route: The LEFT bolt-hanger is attached by a very loose nut as of July 20th 2007. It seems to slowly uscrew itself during use. This is also the case with the route to the left, Jam It
After you've got the rope hanging from the anchors, take a lap and climb the face out to the left of the normal dihedral, adds a new twist to the route. The face moves probably go at 5.5 or 5.6.
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