Chris Schulte bouldering out the direct start to G...
Description
Mr. Spiffy is on the overhung wall next to the parking area for Nip & Tuck. The regular start begins with an awkward mantle. The moves go left from here, through some big but hard to use sidepulls, then to a jug on the arete (which is surprisingly hard to clip from). A couple thrutchy moves and you're at the crux, which involves pretty tough body position on slopey crimps and gastons pulling over the lip. Look for a key right foot under the lip to get your hips up, and it's all over.
I may be a puss, or maybe I was doing the moves wrong, but this thing feels really hard. I heard someone bouldered it out and called it an 8. Yikes.
attn.Peter Beal, I am wondering why is Mr. Stiffy not in the guide? This route is a "classic" short, hard, contrived, very painful, also would like to note there is no " HIKING" for my little legs!! thanks so very much for listing!!
Hi there.. To clarify, both myself and Seth Allred bouldered out this route a while back.. I've also heard that Dave Graham bouldered it out a few years ago.. Maybe V8 from the direct.. Yep, a pretty scary mantle, but not unreasonable with 3 mondo pads... ;) Buttermilk like....
Chris, That is amazing even with mondo pads. Way to go! BTW the mantel on Mr Spiffy is just past the last pad in the photo so you're looking at a 30' drop onto jagged rocks on a 13a crux. The start is definitely harder than V8. That's probably the most significant highball/solo in the Front Range in quite a while. I can't believe it wasn't reported!
Nip and Tuck
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