Tooth and Nail 

FA:  Vaino Kodas and Bob D'Antonio New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad, Sport Consensus:  5.11a [details] Length:  1 pitch, 80 feet Views: 213 page views Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Feb 22, 2003 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Boulder Falls approach closed on 3/30/09 MORE INFO >>> Boulder Open Space and Mountain Parks has temporarily closed Boulder Falls due to potentially unsafe conditions in the cliffs above the falls. No date was set for reopening the area. Boulder Falls was still closed as of 5/19/09. The only legal access to Lower Dream Canyon during this closure is via Upper Dream Canyon. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

BETA PHOTO: Plotinus Wall, right side

Description 

This route shares the same start with "Counting Sheep" on the right side of the Plotinus Wall. Climb up the first 15 feet of Counting Sheep and reach "the Tooth". Clip the bolt on the left side of the tooth and handrail up on good holds. Rock over onto the slab and climb past three bolts to "the Nail". Reach the nail and continue up a finger crack (small gear) to the anchor. Almost three stars. Excellent route with a variety of moves.

Protection 

Six bolts and small to medium gear will get you to a two-bolt anchor.