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Tooth and Nail 

Tooth and Nail 

5.11a/b

   

FA: Vaino Kodas and Bob D'Antonio
New Route: Yes
Type: Trad, Sport
Consensus: 5.11a [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Views: 147 page views

Submitted By: Bob D'Antonio on Feb 22, 2003


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BETA PHOTO: Plotinus Wall, right side


Description 

This route shares the same start with "Counting Sheep" on the right side of the Plotinus Wall. Climb up the first 15 feet of Counting Sheep and reach "the Tooth". Clip the bolt on the left side of the tooth and handrail up on good holds. Rock over onto the slab and climb past three bolts to "the Nail". Reach the nail and continue up a finger crack (small gear) to the anchor. Almost three stars. Excellent route with a variety of moves.


Protection 

Six bolts and small to medium gear will get you to a two-bolt anchor.



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By Tony Bubb
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 21, 2003
rating: 5.11a

No really hard moves, but some insecurity and continuous difficulty lead to a pretty good pump. Not a good warm up.

Pretty good. Not as good as others at the cliff. I'd repeat others first.

Rating given with pump factor in mind. I also used more friction-moves than some other routes at the cliff.