Cruise up first pitch of Cozyhang. At a pin above the first roof, veer right and set a belay in this little shelf. If you were to continue up you would travel through an easy chimney. However you will climb left and out an overhang. (Cozyhang belay is just below you). Stuff a piece of pro up and into a big block, and extend the piece to minimize the rope drag. A sequence of crimpers and a high step will move over and through the crux. Another piece of pro will get you to the top of the flake. A number of exits are possible from here. A unique alernative to all the over-climbed routes on the Dome.
Actually, you can climb this without crimpers. The crack is good. It is more entertaining than the normal finish and protects well. Go for it. (easy for 5.10a)
Speaking from a competent Free Climber. It does not matter how we get there, as long as we get there. Using crimpers or the crack is irrelevant. These route descriptions are a general tool for people to get started. Thanx for your comment.JOEYT
I did this route today thinking it was Cozyhang. I found the lip a little surprising as I was expecting 5.6 climbing. I assumed that I had strayed off route but thought it was maybe 5.8; certainly easy for 5.10. The crack Tony refers to offers text book protection and there is no run-out whatsoever. The whole climb goes easily in 1 pitch as long as you have several slings and 3 long runners.
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